Great hikes in the Cederberg

Western Cape, South Africa

Clanwilliam Cedar | Cedarberg Observatory

Introduction

Some of the best hiking in the Western Cape. There are routes for all levels of fitness, all lengths, and all climates. The scenery is unique, rugged, and spectacular.

Mountaineering attractions include Wolfberg Arch and Cracks, Maltese Cross, Tafelberg, Sneeuberg, Sneeukop, Krakadouw peak, about 72000 ha of wilderness area, and the elusive Clanwilliam Cedar. For the less-fit, there's also Maalgat pool and Stadsaal Caves. In the remote Eastern area, there are several farming villages connected to the Moravian Mission Station at Wupperthal.

For the Trippers ("Don't forget to pack the coolbox, Marge"), there's also shorter walks, the Cederberg winery, Cederberg Observatory, Algeria forest station, Sandrif holiday cottages, Kromriview guest farm, Driehoek farm and campsite, and some simply gorgeous Kodak moments.

Obvious routes

One of the most well known routes is the Wolfberg cracks. It's so well known I'll give only a summary: go to Sanddrif, look up, and keep climbing the 1-in-1 slope till you get to the cracks about one or two hours later. To do this route in really bad style, you can forget to take a waterbottle, go at midday, be totally unfit, gawk at the rock climbers, and only do the wide crack (Adderley Street, also known as the Gaper Crack). Some tips on good style: rather go up the narrow crack (it's a bit off to the right and quite tricky and tight in places), and try a tributary of the wide crack on the way down. And don't forget the waterbottle - it's a dry route.

If you decide to go to the Wolfberg Arch, be warned that it's a Long Way from the cracks - but well worth it. For the adventurers, try a scramble up to the Wolfberg summit about 1 km from the arch. It's like another planet - called The Maze...

Wolfberg Arch can also be reached from Driehoek farm at the other end of Wolfberg. The route is still very long, but it takes you through a fantastic valley of cedar trees and rock formations. Overnight at Die Rif if you prefer not to do a day walk.

The Maltese Cross is another popular sight, but such a straightforward climb that there's really nothing to tell. Maybe you should try this one by moonlight instead.

By the way, the Wolfberg Cracks include some of the best rock climbs in the Cedarberg.

Less-obvious day routes

The Uilsgat Kloof route starts at the oaks below Welbedacht Kloof, and heads northwest along an old track up a wide, deserted valley. The track then turns into an old pass, climbing past Uilsgat Needles to the 1400m level. The route passes many cedar trees and there are turnoffs to Sleeppad Hut and Crystal Pool. You can either carry on to Middelberg Hut and then turn down to Algeria, or take a left turn and do a huge descent to the bottom of Uitkyk Pass. It's called Die Gat - I wonder why.

The Old Uitkyk Pass itself is an interesting variation, if you can find someone to drop you off at one end and drive to the other via the new pass.

The Peaks: Sneeuberg

Sneeuberg is the highest peak in the area, at 2027m. It's a big climb best done in two days from the valley, overnighting at Sneeuberg Hut. The climb is either from the Maltese Cross path, or from Eikebome up an amazingly twisted gravel pass built by Thomas Bain, ending at the hut. Sneeuberg hut is literally 3 walls and a roof - the fourth wall is a huge boulder and the floor is straw. Interesting small rodents and running water (in a rainstorm) are an added feature. This is a Real Mountain Hut and one of my favourite places to stay.

The climb to Sneeuberg from the Maltese Cross / Sneeuberg Hut level is steep and straight. The final rocky stretch to the summit is tricky, especially in bad weather - but the summit is very worthwhile.

My favourite peak: Tafelberg

This is a big climb but definitely worthwhile: Tafelberg is unique. The 1968m summit is one huge rock slab, totally flat and more than 500m across, with shear sides which can only be scrambled in one confined gully. The sandstone top is sculpted into amazing shapes and rainwater pools formed by wind and chemical erosion, and the view is stunning.

To find the gully taking you to the summit, aim for the nek between Tafelberg and the Spout, then follow the base of the cliffs to a rock formation called the Pillarbox. To your left is a gully - it really is the only way up. (Unless of course you're a rock climber. Then Tafelberg and the Spout are just about paradise.)

The shortest ascent of Tafelberg is from Welbedacht kloof, but there is a nicer circular route starting at Driehoek farm, and ascending through an amazing valley of cedars among red sandstone formations. This takes you to an excellent overnighting spot in a grove of cedars called Die Rif, below Gabriel's Pass. From there it's a fairly long walk on the shale band until you meet the path up to Tafelberg. Come down viaWelbedacht kloof and either walk back to Driehoek or have a car waiting for you.

Sleeppad Hut

This is one of my favourite mountain huts. You can reach it in half a day by climbing Welbedacht Kloof and walking up the jeep track (sleeppad) on the shale band. From the hut you could visit Sneeukop, or just enjoy a magnificent sunset view down the valley towards Clanwilliam. The next day you descend into the valley and then up again towards Middelberg Huts. Finally, a sharp descent takes you down to Algeria Forest Station. There are several other huts in this part of the central Cedarberg, and many interesting routes, but I haven't had a chance to visit them yet.

Far north: Pakhuis / Heuningvlei circuit

There's an interesting 3-day circuit starting at the campsite on Pakhuis Pass - the first day is along a new path from the pass to a surprising cave half way along Krakadouwpoort. The second day heads up the kloof towards Heuningvlei village. It's not too far from there to Krakadouw Peak, which I'm told is fantastic. The last day heads along a gravel track back to Pakhuis - where there are hot showers. A big plus.

The three heaviest rainstorms I've ever camped and hiked in were all near Heuningvlei. On one hike we got so badly lost in a storm that we were 8 hours late in our return, and spent the night realising that caves are formed by running water. The hikes were still worth it, even with soaking socks and frozen toes.

Back to Great Hikes in the Western Cape

Ian Webb, Cape Town, South Africa